Lakeside sundowners conjure their own breed of magic. Our first evening, we drank gin and tonics mixed by our endlessly knowledgeable guide, Steve Chinhoi, beside a sprawling group of buffalo, as the sun fell below the horizon in a flurry of fuchsia and lavender.
Sunrise breakfast is equally enthralling: Arriving early the next morning at a crescent-shaped shoreline studded with scads of mopane tree skeletons—a conspicuous Lake Kariba feature—we found a mobile bush kitchen manned by the smiling staff.
Laden with plates of omelets and freshly baked muffins, we feasted to the sound of birdcalls as sunlight danced a brilliant orange on the water that lapped at our feet.
While guests are spoiled for choice of things to do (lake cruises and fishing among them), the lodge is also a prime place to unwind.
An idyllic infinity pool takes center stage, surrounded by common areas masterfully decorated with clean-lined contemporary pieces and handmade African accents, including the striking stone Shona sculptures for which Zimbabwe is world renowned.
After elegant three-course meals on the candlelit terrace, the boma (gathering place) on the bottom deck is perfect for ruminating on your good fortune beside the crackling fire, Amarula (a cream liqueur from South Africa) in hand, beneath the starry canopy of the unmistakable African sky.
Often referred to as “Father Mana” thanks to his nearly 40-year tenure as a guide in Mana Pools National Park—a Unesco World Heritage Site on Zimbabwe’s northern border with Zambia—Stretch Ferreira, the 6-foot-6, larger-than-life driving force behind Stretch Ferreira Safaris, creates riveting adventures for intrepid guests, flavored with his notable charisma and contagious enthusiasm.
With seven tents and a maximum capacity of 12 guests, Goliath Camp—Stretch’s home base, perched on an especially scenic bank of the Zambezi in the park’s north—melds creature comforts (hot outdoor showers, scrumptious three-course dinners) with a bona fide, into-the-bush safari experience.
Guests are advised to look both ways when leaving their tents after nightfall to avoid perilous run-ins with four-legged locals that often meander through—like Bruce, the camp’s resident hippo, who splashes in the river by day, trundles noisily between tents by night, and occasionally snoozes beside the bar in the wee hours.
While a few house rules may seem a bit draconian (it’s literally lights out at 9 p.m., when the generator cuts off), they’re all in the interest of optimal safari sojourns, which kick off well before sunrise when guests pile into the jeeps to Stretch’s familiar refrain: “Okay, guys, let’s get serious!”
Unlike most safaris, where the goal when on foot is to evade anything that could trample or eat you, Stretch specializes in such extraordinary encounters.
His unmatched expertise and deep familiarity with many of Mana’s 12 000-plus elephants—his names for them include Fred Astaire (for his knack for standing on his hind legs to grab high-hanging snacks) and Donald Trump (for his truculent nature)—serve as insurance policies against potential headline-making scenarios.
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